My hardest first ascents on ice:

Unique lines at the Lyngenfjord
2010 - Roadside WI 7 & Storfossen WI 7- X, Lyngen (NOR)

One of the hardest pure ice lines at present
2010 - Centercourt WI 7+, 300m, Anlauftal, Gastein (AUT)

Austria's longest icefall
2009 - Moonwalk WI 6/M7, 1000m, Hohe Warte north face, Zillertal alps (AUT)

Japan's hardest icefall
2008 - Lector WI 7, Chiyoshibetu, Hokkaido (JAP)

Proposal of marriage with the craziest icefall of my life
2007 - Marry me? WI 6+, Hengifoss (ISL)

South America's hardest ice route
2006 - Senda real WI 7+, Cerro Marmolejo (6085m), (CHI)

Hardest mixed multi pitch climb of the world
2006 - Illuminati M11+/WI 6+, Val Lunga, Dolomites (ITA)

First route in Europe graded M13
2005 - Game over M13-, Dryland (AUT)

My highlights on rock:

New multipitch in the tufas of Sicily
2009 - La lingua pura (7c), 200m, 6c obl., FA, Monte Monaco north face, Sizilien (ITA)

Single day redpoint ascent of the Phantom, without any preparation
2009 - Phantom der Zinne, 500m, 9+, Cima Grande north face (ITA)

First ascents at home
2008/09 - Doppelleben (8a+), Story of 4 words (8b) & Mein Tirolerland (8b/b+), Eldorado (AUT)

First 8a on sight
2009 - Sound garden (8a), San Vito, Sicily (ITA)

Perfect granite climb
2008 - Boulevard of broken dreams (8a), 220m, FA, Ötztal (AUT)

First ascent during Honeymoon
2007 - Honeymoon (7c+), FA, Montagnes des Francais (MGA)

First ascents on homelike limestone
2005/07 - Infinity (8a+), Teardrops (8a+/b) & 20.000 Volt (8b), Magdalena (AUT)

Highlights of my life apart from climbing:

Instructor at the Austrian Mountain guide course
2007 - Initiation at the Team

ZAMG Innsbruck
2007 - Start of my employment at the meteorological center in Innsbruck

After 10 jears of intense partnership the time was ripe
2007 - Wedding ceremony, 29th of September

Meteorology, degree passed with distinction
2005 - Diploma thesis: Simulation of the Snow Pack Evolution in Kühtai

Mountain guide
2000 - Final exams of the Education

Mira, our faithful female dog
1999 - On Nevember 11th Mira was born

Master Ski Instructor
1998 - Final examination passed with distinction

Vroni, my dream girl
1997 - At the ski guide course I meet Vroni Gufler

Junior World Championships, Slalom
1995 - Bronze Medal at the junior world championships, Voss (NOR)

Austrian Junior Championships
1993 - Gold medal in Slalom, Schladming (AUT)

Junior Olympics
1991 - Gold medal in Slalom, Mutters (AUT)

© 2020 Mag. Albert Leichtfried - Meteorologe - Bergführer - Extremkletterer
Ochsengarten 21b | 6433 Oetz - AUSTRIA | +43 / 660 / 8152222 |

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